Since squash is in season, this reporter asked Yotam Ottolenghi for a squashy recipe during his talk at the Sacramento Public Library. Ottolenghi suggested simply chopping up the squash and roasting it with salt, pepper, and lots and lots of olive oil. Or, for a tangier take, you can make a version of his butternut, tamarind and coconut stew. Add squash (I used the humble kabocha) into a large pan of onions that have been nearly caramelized and then seasoned with garlic, jalapeno, and spices. Add diluted tamarind paste and coconut milk with jaggery (or dark brown sugar). Adapt. Learn from your environment. Use local ingredients. Cook low and slow. That’s one recipe for comfort. (This recipe is inspired by butternut, tamarind and coconut stew from Yotam Ottolenghi’s ‘Comfort,’ available at New York Times Cooking.)

Ingredients:

1 tsp black mustard seeds

1-2 large onions

6 garlic cloves, crushed to a paste

1 finely chopped jalapeño (or more if you prefer it spicier)

1 tsp ground turmeric

1 tsp chile powder

1 tsp paprika

1 tsp ground coriander

1 large squash (if butternut — peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch chunks; if using kabocha, you can choose to keep the skin on)

1/2 cup of tamarind concentrate mixed with 2 cups hot water (if using a paste, adjust accordingly)

2/3 cup coconut milk (save the rest to make coconut rice)

1/4 c dark brown sugar

1 tsp salt

Optional toppings:

Cilantro leaves

Pomegranate seeds

Peanut butter

Chili flakes

Fried onion

Instructions:

1. Prep the ingredients. Be patient when preparing the butternut squash (or opt for the kabocha and keep the skin on, since it softens well). Mash jalapeño and garlic together in mortar and pestle (or just finely chop and combine the two) and set aside.

2. Add oil and mustard seeds to a pot with a lid. Heat to medium-low until the seeds pop. Then, add the onions, cooking them for about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until caramelized.

3. Add garlic, jalapeño and spices. Cook for one to two minutes before adding your squash pieces, tamarind water mixture and salt.

4. Stir gently and cover, cooking for 50 minutes on medium heat, or until squash starts to soften. (Now is a good time to slowly prep your coconut rice using the remaining coconut milk.) Add coconut milk and brown sugar and cook for an additional five to 10 minutes, uncovered.

Serve with style, comfort and good company.

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